On the quiet northern shore of Lake St Lucia, inside the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Malkoha is reached by ferry and remembered long after.
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WHY BIRDERS COME HERE
Numerous hiking trails run across the property through rich sand forest, acacia veld and along the lake shore. This is where the sand forest specials are: Pink-throated Twinspot, Narina Trogon, Green Malkoha, Eastern Nicator, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Rudd’s Apalis and African Broadbill. No fewer than nine sunbird species have been recorded in the area, including the rare and endemic Neergaard’s Sunbird. African Wood Owl is heard calling from the chalets in the evenings, Green Twinspot works the denser forest, and Bearded Scrub Robin, Emerald Cuckoo, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Crowned Hornbill and Crested Guineafowl are all on the cards. Guests are free to walk the trails alone or take a guide for the more elusive species. For photographers there is a small hide and several water features, which is generally the better way to get close to the unusual ones.
The floodplains are the highlight and, for most visiting birders, the reason to come. They are probably one of the best places in the world to see the Rosy-throated Longclaw. Large flocks of flamingo gather here, along with many waders, and rarities including Long-toed Lapwing, Caspian Plover and Rufous-bellied Heron are recorded annually. The forest and bush fringing the plain holds Southern-banded Snake Eagle, Croaking Cisticola, Lemon-breasted Canary and Grey Waxbill.
One of the most famous wetland birding sites in South Africa, sitting on the Mkhuze River floodplain between uMkhuze Game Reserve and Lake St Lucia. A typical coastal plain wetland of sedge-marsh, open water, bare shore and floating vegetation, surrounded by rural villages and forest. In summer the pans become a major residence for palearctic waders and afrotropical species, and a regular birding day here can produce in excess of 120 species. Specials recorded annually: Pink-backed Pelican, Black Heron, Dwarf Bittern, Woolly-necked and Saddle-billed Stork, African Openbill, Comb Duck, White-backed and Fulvous Duck, African Pygmy-goose, African Marsh-harrier, Lesser Moorhen, Allen’s Gallinule, Lesser Jacana, Senegal Lapwing, Greater Painted-snipe, Collared Pratincole, Caspian Tern and Black Coucal.
Commoner: Goliath Heron, White-faced Duck, African Jacana, African Fish Eagle, White Pelican, with Long-toed Lapwing and Rufous-bellied Heron occasionally. Woodland around the pans: Swamp Nightjar, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater, Broad-billed Roller, Grey-rumped Swallow, Eastern Nicator, Bearded Scrub-robin, White-starred Robin in winter, Rudd’s Apalis, Rufous-winged and Red-faced Cisticola, Burnt-necked Eremomela, African Yellow White-eye, Gorgeous Bush-shrike, Pink-throated Twinspot and Lemon-breasted Canary.
Proclaimed in 1912 and covering some 40,000 hectares within the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, uMkhuze rates among Zululand’s top three birding spots and carries one of the highest checklists of any protected area in South Africa, with over 400 species recorded. The reason is habitat: pans, swamps, acacia thornveld, sand forest, riverine forest, open woodland, cliffs and grassland, all inside one boundary. Kumasinga hides: Pink-throated Twinspot, African Broadbill, Gorgeous Bush-Shrike, African Barred Owlet and Yellow-bellied Greenbul in the surrounding sand forest, with Red-billed Helmetshrike if you are lucky.
In late winter and early spring the flowering Weeping Boer Bean pulls in Neergaard’s, Purple-banded, Collared, Eastern Olive, Grey, Scarlet-chested and White-bellied Sunbirds. The grassy verges hold Dwarf Bittern and Greater Painted Snipe through the wetter summer months. Mantuma camp: Bearded Robin at close quarters, plus Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Lesser Masked Weaver, Collared Sunbird and, in summer, Violet-backed Starling.
The Riverview Walk from opposite the camp office is good for Pink-throated Twinspot and Grey Waxbill early and late. Loop Road: open thornveld holding Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey Penduline Tit, Bushveld Pipit, Flappet Lark, Grey Go-away Bird, Brown-headed Parrot and raptors including Tawny, Steppe and Lesser Spotted Eagles, especially prominent after heavy rain. Nsumo Pan: an extensive wetland fed by the Mkhuze and Umsunduze Rivers, and home to South Africa’s only breeding colony of Pink-backed Pelicans. Yellow-billed Stork, African Spoonbill and egrets breed in the fever trees on the southern side. Numbers depend on water level: waders in the drier early spring, big flocks of duck and geese in late summer.
Fig Forest, beside the pan: Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Narina Trogon, Broad-billed Roller, Green Malkoha, Southern-banded Snake Eagle, Blue-mantled Crested-Flycatcher, Black-throated Wattle-eye, Black-bellied Starling and Green Twinspot. Trumpeter Hornbills call constantly and Pel’s Fishing Owl is resident but rarely seen. Check access before going. The airstrip thornveld: the region’s hot spot for Olive-tree Warbler, with Senegal Lapwing, African Pipit, Icterine Warbler, Lizard Buzzard and Desert Cisticola alongside.
On the western shores of the lake, within the greater iSimangaliso Wetland Park, False Bay Park is mostly sand forest and woodland with patches of open shoreline, and it holds one of South Africa’s only Pink-backed Pelican colonies. The Dugandlovu and Mpophomeni trails are the two main routes in. Lake edge: grassy lawns hold Pink-throated Longclaw; Lesser Jacana where water lilies grow; Goliath Heron, Black Egret and Little Bittern standing quietly in the edge vegetation; Painted Snipe on the mud.
Crocodiles bask along this shoreline, so keep your distance. Open woodland: scan bare treetops for Southern-banded Snake Eagle, and Broad-billed Roller in summer. Dense undergrowth holds the shy Green Coucal; forest edges hold the Maputaland endemic Pink-throated Twinspot. Flowering trees: Neergaard’s Sunbird comes to Weeping Boer-bean and coast coral tree when they flower, alongside the similar but longer-billed Purple-banded Sunbird. Closed-canopy sand forest: dominated by Lebombo wattle, Zulu podberry and black monkey thorn, with bird parties carrying Rudd’s Apalis, White Helmetshrike, Square-tailed Drongo and Yellow-bellied Bulbul, and Narina Trogon and Eastern Nicator under the canopy. African Broadbill: False Bay’s sand forest is probably one of the best places anywhere to find it. Look for closed canopy over an open understorey and search patiently, since the bird sits still and is cryptically coloured. In breeding season its far-carrying call gives it away.
Sand forest on the property; Fig Forest at uMkhuze
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Sand forest on the property; False Bay canopy; Fig Forest
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Property; False Bay forest edges; Kumasinga; Riverview Walk; Muzi woodland
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Property (one of nine sunbird species); False Bay clearings; Kumasinga
Late winter to early spring, on flowering Weeping Boer Bean
Property; False Bay closed-canopy sand forest; Kumasinga
Breeding season, when the call carries
The floodplains
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The floodplains, in large flocks
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False Bay colony; Nsumo Pan breeding colony; Muzi Pans
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Fig Forest, uMkhuze. Resident but rarely seen
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Heard calling from the chalets in the evenings
Evenings
uMkhuze airstrip thornveld, the regional hot spot
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Grassy verges at the uMkhuze hides
Wetter summer months
False Bay open woodland; Muzi woodland
Summer
Woodland around Muzi Pans
Winter
Mantuma camp, uMkhuze
Summer
The floodplains
Recorded annually
Green Malkoha
Sand forest on the property; Fig Forest at uMkhuze
Not stated
Narina Trogon
Sand forest on the property; False Bay canopy; Fig Forest
Not stated
Pink-throated Twinspot
Property; False Bay forest edges; Kumasinga; Riverview Walk; Muzi woodland
Not stated
Neergaard’s Sunbird
Property (one of nine sunbird species); False Bay clearings; Kumasinga
Late winter to early spring, on flowering Weeping Boer Bean
African Broadbill
Property; False Bay closed-canopy sand forest; Kumasinga
Breeding season, when the call carries
The floodplains
Not stated
The floodplains, in large flocks
Not stated
False Bay colony; Nsumo Pan breeding colony; Muzi Pans
Not stated
Fig Forest, uMkhuze. Resident but rarely seen
Not stated
Heard calling from the chalets in the evenings
Evenings
uMkhuze airstrip thornveld, the regional hot spot
Not stated
Grassy verges at the uMkhuze hides
Wetter summer months
False Bay open woodland; Muzi woodland
Summer
Woodland around Muzi Pans
Winter
Mantuma camp, uMkhuze
Summer
The floodplains
Recorded annually
GUIDED BY KNOWLEDGE, SHAPED BY THE MOMENT
Birding here is shaped around the individual. Whether you have been at it for decades or are noticing birds properly for the first time, each outing is guided at your pace and around your interests. Guides interpret call, movement and behaviour, so a sighting turns into something you understand as well as something you record.
Walk quietly through the sand forest as smaller species reveal themselves in the canopy, or work the lake’s edge where waterbirds gather and regroup. Early mornings bring clarity and stillness; late afternoons bring softer light and a different set of movement across the landscape. Give the guides your wish list before you arrive and they will plan around it.
WHEN TO COME
Muzi Pans densities and diversity rise sharply; a day can produce in excess of 120 species. Palearctic waders arrive. Dwarf Bittern and Greater Painted-snipe on the uMkhuze hide verges. Broad-billed Roller at False Bay. Violet-backed Starling at Mantuma.
Nsumo Pan fills; large flocks of duck and geese, including Spurwing Goose and White-faced Duck.
White-starred Robin in the woodland around Muzi Pans.
Weeping Boer Bean flowers at uMkhuze and pulls in seven sunbird species including Neergaard's.
Nsumo Pan runs fairly dry, which brings many waders in close.
Floodplain water levels shift with the season and change what is standing there. Rudd's Apalis is seen throughout uMkhuze.
The region holds over 500 recorded species and the area immediately around the lodge supports well over 400, including rare and endemic birds. The mix of sand forest, acacia veld, lake shore and floodplain within a short distance is what drives the diversity.
Pink-throated Twinspot, Narina Trogon, Green Malkoha, Eastern Nicator, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Rudd’s Apalis and African Broadbill are all recorded on the property, along with nine sunbird species including the rare endemic Neergaard’s Sunbird.
On the floodplains a short guided drive from the lodge, which rank among the best places anywhere for this bird. The same plains hold large flamingo flocks and annual records of Long-toed Lapwing, Caspian Plover and Rufous-bellied Heron.
Both work at Malkoha Lake St. Lucia. The property’s hiking trails through sand forest, acacia veld and lake shore are open to guests unaccompanied, and a guide is worth taking for the shyer forest species and the off-property sites.
Yes. Send your wish list ahead and the guides plan the trip around it. They have spent years on this ground and know the stakeouts, which is what makes Malkoha useful to a birder closing gaps on a life list.
There is a small hide on the property along with several water features, which are usually the better bet for close views of the more unusual species. The Kumasinga hides at uMkhuze, under an hour away, rate among the best in the country.
False Bay Park for African Broadbill and a Pink-backed Pelican colony, uMkhuze Game Reserve for its hides and Nsumo Pan, and Muzi Pans for wetland species. All three sit within about an hour of Malkoha Lake St. Lucia.
Yes. The Green Malkoha is a secretive bird of dense forest canopy, and it is recorded in the sand forest on the property as well as in the Fig Forest at uMkhuze.
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